| Xinjiang's predominant nationality is the | | | | different topography and climate throughout |
| Uygur, a vibrant and outgoing culture of | | | | the vast region, ranging from the cool alpine |
| Central Asian descent whom this writer likes | | | | mountains of the northern Altay region to the |
| to refer to as The Desert People. | | | | arid southern sands of the Taklamakan, the |
| | | | second largest desert in the world. And while |
| Xinjiang Autonomous Region by Tom Carter | | | | Urumqi, Xinjiang's capital, is a gleaming |
| | | | northern metropolis of skyscraprs and |
| "He's from Pakistan." | | | | department stores, the remote cities |
| | | | bordering the south-western Tarim Basin, |
| "No, no! He's Japanese." A lively group of | | | | including the famed Silk Road oasis of |
| Uyghurs orbiting around me at the Hotan | | | | Kashgar, are known for their more traditional |
| marketplace in southern Xinjiang were | | | | way of Muslim life. |
| vociferously debating the nationality of the | | | | |
| 196cm foreigner standing before them. | | | | AttractionsSituated directly on the borders |
| | | | of Mongolia, Russia and Kazakhstan, the |
| I am in fact a first-generation American of a | | | | spectacularly sapphire-blue Hanasi Hu Lake in |
| hybrid Scandinavian-Mediterranean-Hispanic | | | | the mountainous region of northern Xinjiang |
| lineage, my dark brown features and unkempt | | | | is a popular tour group destination. To the |
| travel whiskers often causing confusion | | | | south, the massive Sunday markets in Kashgar |
| amongst Asians who can't quite place my | | | | and Hotan are not to be missed, though the |
| nationality. Ironically, Han Chinese often | | | | latter is arguably more authentic. |
| mistook me for a Weiwuerzu someone from | | | | |
| Xinjiang. | | | | Transportation |
| | | | |
| If there is one province unlike any other in | | | | 1. From Beijing to Urumqi, 10 flights daily |
| the People's Republic, it would have to be | | | | between 8am and 9pm (four hours, 2,410 yuan) |
| Xinjiang. Categorically different from the | | | | |
| rest of the country in every conceivable way, | | | | 2. To Hanasi Hu, a group tour arranged by any |
| the Muslim-dominated Xinjian in the distant | | | | Urumqi travel agency is often suggested for |
| northwest is at once China's most intriguing | | | | its feasibility, however a majority of time |
| and intimidating travel destination. | | | | is spent in transit (four days, 500 yuan, |
| | | | including accommodations and entrance |
| Xinjiang Autonomous Region is China's | | | | tickets) |
| largest, sharing international borders with | | | | |
| Pakistan, Afghanistan andcentral Asian | | | | 3. To Kashgar, overnight trains leaving daily |
| countries. This geographical proximity | | | | from Urumqi at 1pm and 5pm are the most |
| resultingly accounts for over half of China's | | | | convenient and comfortable way to travel (30 |
| 12 million Muslims, perhaps Xinjiang's most | | | | hours, 170 yuan). |
| obvious characteristicMuslim followers of | | | | |
| Islam, the second largest religion in the | | | | 4. From Kashgar to Hetian, busses depart from |
| world, are a devout people who believe in the | | | | Renmin Donglu almost hourly between 7am and |
| oneness of God, called Allah in Arabic, as | | | | 6pm (eight hours, 50 yuan). |
| opposed to the Christian doctrine of a holy | | | | |
| trinity. Muslim adherents can be seen | | | | AccommodationXinjiang disappointingly offers |
| throughout Xinjiang carrying venerated copies | | | | very little as far as budget accommodations |
| of the Qur'an (Islamic holy scripture) and | | | | or youth hostels, and due to immigration from |
| faithfully dashing off to he mosque five | | | | neighboring nations, smaller boardinghouses |
| times a day for a congregational series of | | | | are strict to only allow Chinese nationals. |
| Mecca-facing prostrations and prayer. | | | | In Kashgar, the Uyghur-run Noor Bish Hotel |
| | | | near the famous Id Kah Mosque is a |
| Xinjiang's predominant nationality is the | | | | backpacker's favorite (30 yuanfor a dorm |
| Uygur, a vibrant and outgoing culture of | | | | bed). |
| Central Asian descent whom this writer | | | | |
| affectionately likes to refer to as The | | | | Regional cuisineIf China is famous for its |
| Desert People. The Turkic-speaking Uyghurs | | | | cuisine, then Xinjiang is responsible for |
| traditionally attire themselves in simple, | | | | half its success. Heavily seasoned lamb kebab |
| loose-fitting robes to accommodate the harsh | | | | (yangrou chuan), spicy lamian noodles topped |
| climate, with the men wearing either plain | | | | with peppers, tomatoes and garlic, deep-fried |
| white or brilliantly embroidered dopi skull | | | | fresh fish (how did they get fish in the |
| caps and the women veiling themselves in a | | | | desert?), goat's head soup, golden pilaf rice |
| hijab headscarf. A shaved head and long beard | | | | and fragrant peaches and watermelon, all |
| further distinguishes the Uyghur men while | | | | washed down with refreshing cinnamon tea. |
| the ladies take pride and pleasure in dyeing | | | | There may not be as much bread (nang) in the |
| their hands red with henna. | | | | whole of China as in Kashgar, with lightly |
| | | | seasoned loaves and sesame seed bagels being |
| Geographically, Xinjiang offers starkly | | | | pulled hot out the oven by the minute. |