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Xinjiang Autonomous Region

Xinjiang's predominant nationality isdifferent topography and climate
the Uygur, a vibrant and outgoingthroughout the vast region, ranging from
culture of Central Asian descent whomthe cool alpine mountains of the
this writer likes to refer to as Thenorthern Altay region to the arid
Desert People.southern sands of the Taklamakan, the
Xinjiang Autonomous Region by Tom Cartersecond largest desert in the world. And
"He's from Pakistan."while Urumqi, Xinjiang's capital, is a
"No, no! He's Japanese." A lively groupgleaming northern metropolis of
of Uyghurs orbiting around me at theskyscraprs and department stores, the
Hotan marketplace in southern Xinjiangremote cities bordering the
were vociferously debating thesouth-western Tarim Basin, including the
nationality of the 196cm foreignerfamed Silk Road oasis of Kashgar, are
standing before them.known for their more traditional way of
I am in fact a first-generation AmericanMuslim life.
of a hybridAttractionsSituated directly on the
Scandinavian-Mediterranean-Hispanicborders of Mongolia, Russia and
lineage, my dark brown features andKazakhstan, the spectacularly
unkempt travel whiskers often causingsapphire-blue Hanasi Hu Lake in the
confusion amongst Asians who can't quitemountainous region of northern Xinjiang
place my nationality. Ironically, Hanis a popular tour group destination. To
Chinese often mistook me for a Weiwuerzuthe south, the massive Sunday markets in
someone from Xinjiang.Kashgar and Hotan are not to be missed,
If there is one province unlike anythough the latter is arguably more
other in the People's Republic, it wouldauthentic.
have to be Xinjiang. CategoricallyTransportation
different from the rest of the country1. From Beijing to Urumqi, 10 flights
in every conceivable way, thedaily between 8am and 9pm (four hours,
Muslim-dominated Xinjian in the distant2,410 yuan)
northwest is at once China's most2. To Hanasi Hu, a group tour arranged
intriguing and intimidating travelby any Urumqi travel agency is often
destination.suggested for its feasibility, however a
Xinjiang Autonomous Region is China'smajority of time is spent in transit
largest, sharing international borders(four days, 500 yuan, including
with Pakistan, Afghanistan andcentralaccommodations and entrance tickets)
Asian countries. This geographical3. To Kashgar, overnight trains leaving
proximity resultingly accounts for overdaily from Urumqi at 1pm and 5pm are the
half of China's 12 million Muslims,most convenient and comfortable way to
perhaps Xinjiang's most obvioustravel (30 hours, 170 yuan).
characteristicMuslim followers of Islam,4. From Kashgar to Hetian, busses depart
the second largest religion in thefrom Renmin Donglu almost hourly between
world, are a devout people who believe7am and 6pm (eight hours, 50 yuan).
in the oneness of God, called Allah inAccommodationXinjiang disappointingly
Arabic, as opposed to the Christianoffers very little as far as budget
doctrine of a holy trinity. Muslimaccommodations or youth hostels, and due
adherents can be seen throughoutto immigration from neighboring nations,
Xinjiang carrying venerated copies ofsmaller boardinghouses are strict to
the Qur'an (Islamic holy scripture) andonly allow Chinese nationals. In
faithfully dashing off to he mosque fiveKashgar, the Uyghur-run Noor Bish Hotel
times a day for a congregational seriesnear the famous Id Kah Mosque is a
of Mecca-facing prostrations and prayer.backpacker's favorite (30 yuanfor a dorm
Xinjiang's predominant nationality isbed).
the Uygur, a vibrant and outgoingRegional cuisineIf China is famous for
culture of Central Asian descent whomits cuisine, then Xinjiang is
this writer affectionately likes toresponsible for half its success.
refer to as The Desert People. TheHeavily seasoned lamb kebab (yangrou
Turkic-speaking Uyghurs traditionallychuan), spicy lamian noodles topped with
attire themselves in simple,peppers, tomatoes and garlic, deep-fried
loose-fitting robes to accommodate thefresh fish (how did they get fish in the
harsh climate, with the men wearingdesert?), goat's head soup, golden pilaf
either plain white or brilliantlyrice and fragrant peaches and
embroidered dopi skull caps and thewatermelon, all washed down with
women veiling themselves in a hijabrefreshing cinnamon tea. There may not
headscarf. A shaved head and long beardbe as much bread (nang) in the whole of
further distinguishes the Uyghur menChina as in Kashgar, with lightly
while the ladies take pride and pleasureseasoned loaves and sesame seed bagels
in dyeing their hands red with henna.being pulled hot out the oven by the
Geographically, Xinjiang offers starklyminute.



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