| Xinjiang's predominant nationality is | | | | different topography and climate |
| the Uygur, a vibrant and outgoing | | | | throughout the vast region, ranging from |
| culture of Central Asian descent whom | | | | the cool alpine mountains of the |
| this writer likes to refer to as The | | | | northern Altay region to the arid |
| Desert People. | | | | southern sands of the Taklamakan, the |
| Xinjiang Autonomous Region by Tom Carter | | | | second largest desert in the world. And |
| "He's from Pakistan." | | | | while Urumqi, Xinjiang's capital, is a |
| "No, no! He's Japanese." A lively group | | | | gleaming northern metropolis of |
| of Uyghurs orbiting around me at the | | | | skyscraprs and department stores, the |
| Hotan marketplace in southern Xinjiang | | | | remote cities bordering the |
| were vociferously debating the | | | | south-western Tarim Basin, including the |
| nationality of the 196cm foreigner | | | | famed Silk Road oasis of Kashgar, are |
| standing before them. | | | | known for their more traditional way of |
| I am in fact a first-generation American | | | | Muslim life. |
| of a hybrid | | | | AttractionsSituated directly on the |
| Scandinavian-Mediterranean-Hispanic | | | | borders of Mongolia, Russia and |
| lineage, my dark brown features and | | | | Kazakhstan, the spectacularly |
| unkempt travel whiskers often causing | | | | sapphire-blue Hanasi Hu Lake in the |
| confusion amongst Asians who can't quite | | | | mountainous region of northern Xinjiang |
| place my nationality. Ironically, Han | | | | is a popular tour group destination. To |
| Chinese often mistook me for a Weiwuerzu | | | | the south, the massive Sunday markets in |
| someone from Xinjiang. | | | | Kashgar and Hotan are not to be missed, |
| If there is one province unlike any | | | | though the latter is arguably more |
| other in the People's Republic, it would | | | | authentic. |
| have to be Xinjiang. Categorically | | | | Transportation |
| different from the rest of the country | | | | 1. From Beijing to Urumqi, 10 flights |
| in every conceivable way, the | | | | daily between 8am and 9pm (four hours, |
| Muslim-dominated Xinjian in the distant | | | | 2,410 yuan) |
| northwest is at once China's most | | | | 2. To Hanasi Hu, a group tour arranged |
| intriguing and intimidating travel | | | | by any Urumqi travel agency is often |
| destination. | | | | suggested for its feasibility, however a |
| Xinjiang Autonomous Region is China's | | | | majority of time is spent in transit |
| largest, sharing international borders | | | | (four days, 500 yuan, including |
| with Pakistan, Afghanistan andcentral | | | | accommodations and entrance tickets) |
| Asian countries. This geographical | | | | 3. To Kashgar, overnight trains leaving |
| proximity resultingly accounts for over | | | | daily from Urumqi at 1pm and 5pm are the |
| half of China's 12 million Muslims, | | | | most convenient and comfortable way to |
| perhaps Xinjiang's most obvious | | | | travel (30 hours, 170 yuan). |
| characteristicMuslim followers of Islam, | | | | 4. From Kashgar to Hetian, busses depart |
| the second largest religion in the | | | | from Renmin Donglu almost hourly between |
| world, are a devout people who believe | | | | 7am and 6pm (eight hours, 50 yuan). |
| in the oneness of God, called Allah in | | | | AccommodationXinjiang disappointingly |
| Arabic, as opposed to the Christian | | | | offers very little as far as budget |
| doctrine of a holy trinity. Muslim | | | | accommodations or youth hostels, and due |
| adherents can be seen throughout | | | | to immigration from neighboring nations, |
| Xinjiang carrying venerated copies of | | | | smaller boardinghouses are strict to |
| the Qur'an (Islamic holy scripture) and | | | | only allow Chinese nationals. In |
| faithfully dashing off to he mosque five | | | | Kashgar, the Uyghur-run Noor Bish Hotel |
| times a day for a congregational series | | | | near the famous Id Kah Mosque is a |
| of Mecca-facing prostrations and prayer. | | | | backpacker's favorite (30 yuanfor a dorm |
| Xinjiang's predominant nationality is | | | | bed). |
| the Uygur, a vibrant and outgoing | | | | Regional cuisineIf China is famous for |
| culture of Central Asian descent whom | | | | its cuisine, then Xinjiang is |
| this writer affectionately likes to | | | | responsible for half its success. |
| refer to as The Desert People. The | | | | Heavily seasoned lamb kebab (yangrou |
| Turkic-speaking Uyghurs traditionally | | | | chuan), spicy lamian noodles topped with |
| attire themselves in simple, | | | | peppers, tomatoes and garlic, deep-fried |
| loose-fitting robes to accommodate the | | | | fresh fish (how did they get fish in the |
| harsh climate, with the men wearing | | | | desert?), goat's head soup, golden pilaf |
| either plain white or brilliantly | | | | rice and fragrant peaches and |
| embroidered dopi skull caps and the | | | | watermelon, all washed down with |
| women veiling themselves in a hijab | | | | refreshing cinnamon tea. There may not |
| headscarf. A shaved head and long beard | | | | be as much bread (nang) in the whole of |
| further distinguishes the Uyghur men | | | | China as in Kashgar, with lightly |
| while the ladies take pride and pleasure | | | | seasoned loaves and sesame seed bagels |
| in dyeing their hands red with henna. | | | | being pulled hot out the oven by the |
| Geographically, Xinjiang offers starkly | | | | minute. |