| Xinjiang's predominant nationality is the Uygur, a | | | | topography and climate throughout the vast |
| vibrant and outgoing culture of Central Asian | | | | region, ranging from the cool alpine mountains of |
| descent whom this writer likes to refer to as The | | | | the northern Altay region to the arid southern |
| Desert People. | | | | sands of the Taklamakan, the second largest |
| Xinjiang Autonomous Region by Tom Carter | | | | desert in the world. And while Urumqi, Xinjiang's |
| "He's from Pakistan." | | | | capital, is a gleaming northern metropolis of |
| "No, no! He's Japanese." A lively group of Uyghurs | | | | skyscraprs and department stores, the remote |
| orbiting around me at the Hotan marketplace in | | | | cities bordering the south-western Tarim Basin, |
| southern Xinjiang were vociferously debating the | | | | including the famed Silk Road oasis of Kashgar, |
| nationality of the 196cm foreigner standing before | | | | are known for their more traditional way of |
| them. | | | | Muslim life. |
| I am in fact a first-generation American of a | | | | AttractionsSituated directly on the borders of |
| hybrid Scandinavian-Mediterranean-Hispanic lineage, | | | | Mongolia, Russia and Kazakhstan, the spectacularly |
| my dark brown features and unkempt travel | | | | sapphire-blue Hanasi Hu Lake in the mountainous |
| whiskers often causing confusion amongst Asians | | | | region of northern Xinjiang is a popular tour group |
| who can't quite place my nationality. Ironically, Han | | | | destination. To the south, the massive Sunday |
| Chinese often mistook me for a Weiwuerzu | | | | markets in Kashgar and Hotan are not to be |
| someone from Xinjiang. | | | | missed, though the latter is arguably more |
| If there is one province unlike any other in the | | | | authentic. |
| People's Republic, it would have to be Xinjiang. | | | | Transportation |
| Categorically different from the rest of the | | | | 1. From Beijing to Urumqi, 10 flights daily between |
| country in every conceivable way, the | | | | 8am and 9pm (four hours, 2,410 yuan) |
| Muslim-dominated Xinjian in the distant northwest | | | | 2. To Hanasi Hu, a group tour arranged by any |
| is at once China's most intriguing and intimidating | | | | Urumqi travel agency is often suggested for its |
| travel destination. | | | | feasibility, however a majority of time is spent in |
| Xinjiang Autonomous Region is China's largest, | | | | transit (four days, 500 yuan, including |
| sharing international borders with Pakistan, | | | | accommodations and entrance tickets) |
| Afghanistan andcentral Asian countries. This | | | | 3. To Kashgar, overnight trains leaving daily from |
| geographical proximity resultingly accounts for | | | | Urumqi at 1pm and 5pm are the most convenient |
| over half of China's 12 million Muslims, perhaps | | | | and comfortable way to travel (30 hours, 170 |
| Xinjiang's most obvious characteristicMuslim | | | | yuan). |
| followers of Islam, the second largest religion in | | | | 4. From Kashgar to Hetian, busses depart from |
| the world, are a devout people who believe in the | | | | Renmin Donglu almost hourly between 7am and |
| oneness of God, called Allah in Arabic, as opposed | | | | 6pm (eight hours, 50 yuan). |
| to the Christian doctrine of a holy trinity. Muslim | | | | AccommodationXinjiang disappointingly offers |
| adherents can be seen throughout Xinjiang | | | | very little as far as budget accommodations or |
| carrying venerated copies of the Qur'an (Islamic | | | | youth hostels, and due to immigration from |
| holy scripture) and faithfully dashing off to he | | | | neighboring nations, smaller boardinghouses are |
| mosque five times a day for a congregational | | | | strict to only allow Chinese nationals. In Kashgar, |
| series of Mecca-facing prostrations and prayer. | | | | the Uyghur-run Noor Bish Hotel near the famous |
| Xinjiang's predominant nationality is the Uygur, a | | | | Id Kah Mosque is a backpacker's favorite (30 |
| vibrant and outgoing culture of Central Asian | | | | yuanfor a dorm bed). |
| descent whom this writer affectionately likes to | | | | Regional cuisineIf China is famous for its cuisine, |
| refer to as The Desert People. The | | | | then Xinjiang is responsible for half its success. |
| Turkic-speaking Uyghurs traditionally attire | | | | Heavily seasoned lamb kebab (yangrou chuan), |
| themselves in simple, loose-fitting robes to | | | | spicy lamian noodles topped with peppers, |
| accommodate the harsh climate, with the men | | | | tomatoes and garlic, deep-fried fresh fish (how did |
| wearing either plain white or brilliantly embroidered | | | | they get fish in the desert?), goat's head soup, |
| dopi skull caps and the women veiling themselves | | | | golden pilaf rice and fragrant peaches and |
| in a hijab headscarf. A shaved head and long | | | | watermelon, all washed down with refreshing |
| beard further distinguishes the Uyghur men while | | | | cinnamon tea. There may not be as much bread |
| the ladies take pride and pleasure in dyeing their | | | | (nang) in the whole of China as in Kashgar, with |
| hands red with henna. | | | | lightly seasoned loaves and sesame seed bagels |
| Geographically, Xinjiang offers starkly different | | | | being pulled hot out the oven by the minute. |